You should always know you’re in for a challenge when you travel off-season, but never, and I repeat, NEVER, let that deter you from doing so. I’ve talked before about the benefits of traveling during winter in Central Europe and now I’ve got some good news about off-season travel through the Balkans. My shining example of this comes in the form of one of the most visited spots in the entire region and that is Mostar in March.
While traveling between Belgrade and Sarajevo proved to be time consuming and difficult, traveling between Sarajevo and Mostar was incredibly easy by bus so I decided to go for a night. It takes just a couple of hours and there are several going throughout the day. Mostar is also a pretty popular destination for organized tour groups coming from Croatia; I almost took one there myself in 2007 while I was in Dubrovnik, but so glad I didn’t in the end. Large coach tours are usually pretty annoying and I also wouldn’t be telling this story.
I arrived into town much later than I had hoped for, but that’s what happens sometimes when there’s too much rakija in the mix the night before. A little mad at myself since the sun was well on its way down and I was going to leave fairly early the next morning, I ran to the hostel I had booked to drop off my stuff and headed straight to the Old Town.
As I walked in what I thought was the general direction of the Old Town, I started getting worried that maybe I was going the wrong way since I didn’t see any other tourists around. Was I even in the right city? I just kept walking and walking until I finally realized I was standing in the middle of one of the most famous bridges in the entire world…ALONE.
Mostar’s Old Town is one of the most recognizable images from Bosnia and Herzegovina (it’s in Herzegovina, btw…). Even if you haven’t heard of the city, you’d probably recognize its iconic Stari Most, or “old bridge”. There is an incredible amount of history behind it and it also happens to be a pretty famous dive spot. One of the best in the world apart from Acapulco, Mexico.
Now, if you’ve ever looked into visiting Mostar or have seen photos then you know the chances of having such a “gem” all to yourself are pretty slim unless it’s during the dead of winter. Or apparently just a late afternoon/early evening in mid-March…
If you’d like to read a bit more about the history of the bridge from its origins to its destruction during the Balkan War in the 90s and subsequent restoration, head on over to this page. This is a story I’m not even going to attempt to summarize and I am also not looking for anyone else to do it on here either (read: no politcal comments, please). Bottom line is that it’s a really beautiful spot worth visiting if you are ever in the area and for more than a couple of hours if you really want to get a feel for the place. None of this day trip business.
Clearly it’s also worth visiting off-season if large crowds aren’t your thing. Although all the shops were closed and I missed the sexy diver dudes in speedos who are prominent in the middle of summer, the fact that I got one of Europe’s most famous (and most controversial) UNESCO World Heritage sites to myself that day? Unforgettable.
14 Comments
Shaun
June 12, 2013 at 5:14 pmCouldn’t agree more about the offseason. Unreal how empty it is, great for photography though. While I’ve never been, I know the history and I think there is a museum about the bridge as well.
Thanks to the title, I got that 80s song bouncing around in my head!
Larissa
June 13, 2013 at 1:44 pmYes I think you’re right, but it would have also been closed. It was perfect for photos! I do hope to get back though when it’s warm and buzzing as well – would be such a different scene.
Helen- Wandering Albatross
June 25, 2013 at 6:16 pmJust ran off to google Mostar, ashamed to say it wasn’t familiar to me, didn’t see any nice sights in speedos but I did recognize the bridge its beautiful and how lucky you are to have had it all to yourself.
Larissa
June 25, 2013 at 6:59 pmYep, was pretty cool. Nice speedo sights? Here you go :) —> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TvQ14tbcz0
Jane Has A Backpack
August 22, 2013 at 3:51 amI haven’t heard of this city. The city itself is historical just by the look of the photos. I am curious about the place and I’m eager for more information. Thanks for the head start.
Larissa
August 25, 2013 at 7:42 pmYou’re welcome.
nico
February 18, 2014 at 12:14 pmI just discovered you blog and I love it :) I really like your photography as well.Which camera do you use .
Larissa
February 21, 2014 at 12:01 amHi Nico! Glad you found me :) All of the photos in this post were actually taken with a Canon G12 but edited on an iPhone. For the most part though, all photos you will see on this blog were taken and edited on an iPhone 4 or 4s.
Wondering
May 26, 2014 at 3:28 pmHi nice to hear a nice things about Mostar. What is your recommendation for staying over there? Safe travels.
Larissa
June 12, 2014 at 2:08 amBed & Breakfast Most is where we stay on the tours we lead there, but there is quite a good selection of other small bed and breakfasts that are comparable on the various booking sites if you have a look.
Chris
November 17, 2014 at 10:28 pmNice blog, came here reading about Mostar in winter. Can’t believe you edit your photos on your iPhone, what effect is it that you use? I like the processed film colours and love the appearance of it being smooth and sharp at the same time, which I know makes no sense.
Larissa
December 16, 2014 at 10:49 pmActually this is one of the few posts where I used images from my Canon G12 though I did make edits on my iPhone. I used mainly Snapseed and Dynamic Light. Thanks for the compliment :)
Ariana (The Bosnian Aussie)
January 27, 2015 at 12:07 pmEven though australia is my home, my heart always remains in Bosnia, my birthplace. Sadly the war took the opportunity to grow up in this beautiful land but i am thankful for people like you, who show light on this beautiful place. I started my own blog, to continue showing people all around the world how beautiful Bosnia & Hercegovina (part where im from) is and why they should add it to their bucket lists. Ive done 3 separate trips back home in just 14 months and plan on going every year to re discover my roots. And its helped my bosnian language skills alot, as i mostly speak english at home. I HIGH RECOMMEND anyone traveling to Europe to add BOSNIA to their list. You wont regret it, and it will keep you coming back for more!
http://www.thebosnianaussie.wordpress.com
instagram.com/thebosnianaussie
Larissa
February 7, 2015 at 6:36 pmGreat blog, loved your latest post about Trebinje – a place I have yet to spend time in, have only passed by on the way to Montenegro. I will be back in the Balkans this spring so will definitely be referring back for other places to check out that I haven’t yet when I’m in Bosnia again. So cool that after all these years you still have such a connection to your homeland. It’s a beautiful place with beautiful people so it’s easy to see why :)