Šuto Orizari, Šutka, Shutka – whatever you want to call it – is one of Macedonia’s coolest attractions in my opinion. Then again I am a blonde gypsy and fascinated with all things Roma…
Whatever, you still have to go if you are ever in Skopje, whether you are a gypsy or not, as there really is no other place in the world like it.
In case you missed it, Shutka came in at #5 my list of “things you should know before traveling to Macedonia” as it happens to have the largest concentrated Roma population in the world and it just a 15-20 minute bus ride from central Skopje. Romani is an official language, the mayor is an ethnic Rom, and they even have their own Romani TV and radio stations, newspaper, and flag. Pretty huge achievement for a minority that is used to facing nothing but discrimination or forced assimilation in every other European country.
Shutka is also famous for being the stomping grounds of Esma Redžepova, Queen of Gypsy Music, and has been the backdrop for some pretty interesting films. Several scenes for Emir Kusturica’s Time of the Gypsies were shot there, as was Aleksander Manic’s entire documockery (I just made that word up), The Shutka Book of Records. I wouldn’t say either film is an accurate depiction of what Shutka is really like, at least not in my 2 hour experience with it, but the latter is actually a documentary based on real people who live there. Real entertaining people.
My experience with Shutka was much more mellow. Interesting for sure, but nothing that out of the ordinary or outrageous like I was hoping for. I wanted to see Buzescu-esque mansions painted in gold, pimped out oxcarts, dance parties taking place in the street, and FAZLI (see 0:34 above). None of that happened.
Thought what I captured in the video above might have been the dance party I was looking for, but actually the owner of this house just wanted everyone to know that they were the champion of having the loudest speakers in Shutka. I’m pretty sure as the music was ON, but no people or dancing. This also happened.
It’s a real life gooseherder (like a herder of sheep, but with fighting geese) and that is a ski pole in his hand.
The easiest way to get to Shutka is on the #19 or #20 bus. It’s basically the last stop and you will know you have arrived as soon as you pass a big market and start seeing these half wheels to your left – they are half of a chakra, the international Romani symbol.
I ended up going with two other friends but I could sense that I would have been just fine had I gone alone. In fact, we even ran into an American girl (VERY random) who has been living there for two years teaching English for the Peace Corps and confirmed that it is a very safe place. It’s just not many tourists pass through so you’re likely to be met with a lot of looks and some questions, especially from the little ones.
Definitely have a Gypsy Burger (really just a Shutka pljeskavica) from this joint right on the main road – it’s not far from where you catch the bus back to Skopje. These guys were awesome and the younger one spoke English very well. I think one of the first things he asked me was if I was from Miami. Do I look like I am from Miami?
Shutka certainly is a sea of stories and now my dream is to go back for wedding season one of these days. I’d also like to meet Esma, whether it’s in Shutka or Malmö where she will be representing Macedonia at the Eurovision song contest this spring. She seems like a lovely lady.
AND, because I like you, I am going to leave you with this amazing video that I discovered. Watch it carefully – great shots of Skopje’s old bazaar and a pretty clever storyline. By 1:35 Ras Tweed has made it up to Shutka and by 2:11 Esma comes in with a BANG . You’re welcome.
16 Comments
Stephen S.
January 19, 2013 at 7:50 pmWhat an awesome and crazy little town. What did you mean by “fighting geese”. Do they geese fight for a living??
Larissa
January 19, 2013 at 9:06 pmI don’t know if they do it for a living, but they most definitely do it to become champions.
Shaun
January 21, 2013 at 4:45 pmCool shot of the modern bus and the old cart trying to get out of the way.
Never knew a community like this existed in Macedonia. When is the wedding season? And are you an undercover crasher?
Larissa
January 21, 2013 at 7:04 pmThanks, I loved that one as well. I believe it is in or around July and for that I would join the wedding crashing club. Hopefully it wouldn’t come down to that though, I’d prefer a formal invitation which I think I could find ;)
Dave Seminara
January 23, 2013 at 12:10 amWhat a nice trip down memory lane! I used to go to the bazaar in Sutka when I lived in Skopje. It is an interesting place. I used to take photos there as well. Here is one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21054697@N03/2048121705/in/set-72157603251857999
One question though: how could this be the largest Roma community in the world? I’m pretty sure there are much larger Roma neighborhoods in Bulgaria and Romania, which have a lot more Roma to begin with. Am I wrong on that one?
Larissa
January 23, 2013 at 1:34 amGreat photo and interesting place indeed!
I spent time fact checking this because I knew it was a bold statement. I know Shutka is not the largest Roma community in the world, no way, so that’s why I made sure to note “concentrated”. That’s what I read from several sources and having an area of less than 3 sq miles with a population between 20,000-50,000 depending on the season, 60-80% of which are Romani (obviously figures are subject to change and inaccurate recording), I do believe it has to be somewhere at the top.
Another point I want bring up is why I personally decided to call it “Gypsy Capital of the World”, because that is also bold. That has more to do with the advancements that have been made in the community with “capital” being used here in a loose administrative sense. As I mentioned above, the fact that they have their own TV and radio stations, Romani as an official language, and active participation of Roma politicians in the Macedonian government is highly commendable for a minority that many countries, especially Romania and Bulgaria, often fail to acknowledge.
Here are two good articles that might be of interest to you. The last one is pretty old, but I think it’s still good:
http://www.theworld.org/2011/09/gypsies-roma-shutka-macedonia/
http://www.errc.org/article/nezdet-mustafa-portrait-of-a-romani-politician/1244
By the way, I just have to throw this out there while I am at it – I am by no means trying to position myself as a Roma expert or activist! I’m just a girl fascinated by the culture and happy to promote it where I’ve seen people working hard to preserve it. If someone wants to prove me wrong or enlighten me, be my guest. I’m here to learn!
yina janitka
August 19, 2013 at 5:10 pmI am from the Uk but part Romani on my late patenal grandmothers side. Im going to visit Skopje this year and will make a point of going to Romani area. I have been il recently and feel the energy will help to heal me
Larissa
August 25, 2013 at 7:44 pmOh definitely make it a point, lots of energy there particularly when the outdoor market is in full force. Have a nice trip!
Adam
January 29, 2013 at 6:16 pmHey Larissa, Really enjoyed this glimpse into Roma life! Looks like a fascinating place. Love that you ran into a Peace Corps volunteer there as well!
Larissa
January 29, 2013 at 11:54 pmI know, it was so random yet so appropriate! Glad you enjoyed it, thank you :)
Jef
May 31, 2014 at 2:40 pmHi, I was on Skopje and this article was a great advice.
We also passed the house of the guy with the loudest speakers, and I’m sure it was ON ;-)
We also saw some other toursist (maybe they also read your article), but they were filming with a big camera. I am not sure if that was such a good idea, because we had the impression that some people didn’t like being photographed.
So I recommend to other people to be discrete with taking pictures.
Larissa
June 12, 2014 at 2:04 amThat is AWESOME! So glad you experienced Shutka’s champion of loudest speakers too and I agree – don’t think it’s a place you want to be openly filming as a tourist. Judging by the poor quality of my video, I think you can I tell I was’t paying as much attention to what I was actually shooting as much as I was trying to keep what I was doing on the low pro.
Chris
September 16, 2014 at 11:20 amHey Blonde Gypsy, I´m glad I came across this article, I’m in Skopje these days and will surely go for a trip today or tomorrow.
One thing, Mockumentary is sometimes used, I don´t know if that´s what you mean :)
Larissa
September 18, 2014 at 5:54 pmGood. I have a tendency to make up words so glad that it actually exists. Hope you made it there and enjoyed yourself!
Ander Von Anderson
November 3, 2015 at 12:23 amReally enjoyed reading your article, brings back memories of my four months in Skopje! Fell in love with a Roma child named Adeje who was a beggar on the streets.. I can still see her innocent face light up when she would see us approaching her
Larissa
November 10, 2015 at 1:28 pmVery cute :) I’m sure that was quite an experience!